Toronto

Cold enough for you?


Morning began with a weather report on the radio: "Cold records warnings have already been broken in southern Ontario, including at Toronto Pearson, as yet another day of extremely frigid temperatures looms."

Crazy to have left clumps of daffodils and bursts of forsythia on the west coast for blades of wind that slice down from the north to scrape my face as I wait to cross the intersection of Bathurst and St. Clair West. Ah Toronto with all its charms and eccentricities. Its cold! "Jesus Christ on a bicycle," said the woman in the ladies room of the pub we ducked into when streetcar movement stopped on account of an accident. No one knew how long we would have to wait. A whiskey will warm you up, my companion advised and he was right, but two whiskies, just past noon would have drenched ambition and there were places to go, things to see.  Against the backdrop of a glass wall above the sunny frigid corner of Queen and University, two young opera singers waltzed around the foyer of the Canadian Opera Company building to the music of Franz Leher's "Merry Widow".  Next, MOCCA, where fellow west coaster Douglas Coupland's humorous updates on Canadian identity included a back to back lounge chair entitled "Two Solitudes," referring to author Hugh McLennans's term for the French/English divide; and a couch, two-thirds of which was covered in plaid while a narrower portion of the same piece of furniture was upholstered with an aboriginal knit design, another kind of historical divide, between the anglophone settlers and the First Nations groups that they marginalized soon after arriving in this big country.

On a slow day at Global Cheese in Kensington Market, the man who rang up my choices lingered to tell stories of his native Azores. Good coffee at Moonbean, perfect crusts on the baguettes at the Blackbird Bakery. Back out to the streetcar island where a man with a crowbar was digging ice and dirt out of the track grooves.

Among the vendors at Wychwood Farmer's Market on Saturday was the mushroom man from whom we bought a basket of fresh shitake, and a lady who makes chocolate from the milk of her goats. Fresh root vegetables even in winter, and the cold makes you hungry,  but a huge Loblaws store is nearest the subway station and there is never a shortage of entertainment there: a man behind me at the register, whose order included pizza fixings, as did mine, described the four different versions he intended to concoct for his wife and two sons. One of the two men working on a vending machine near where I bent down to smell the leftover valentine bouquets delivered a thought for the day:"If you never fall down, you never learn how to get up."

And on the street in front of Loblaws, the ever present busker whose song repeats as if on a loop. Summer, winter it's always "The Last Farewell". No relief from the weather in the forecast. If he stays out there much longer, it might really be farewell.

To TO

Off the plane, on the bus to the Kipling subway station, the grey look of the city, the people. The winter fatigue.

Table for two at the Travelling Book Café, where Margaret Hollingsworth and I focussed on writing and publishing. This old friend, a long time writer with many plays to her name, a novel, short stories, essays, has become a poet, and after a lifetime of writing, her original ideas, her stunning language, she wonders, is it good enough? Even having won a poetry contest hasn't convinced her. Still, if no one else will publish her collection, she will do it herself..."because I have spent all those hours..."

Tulips in all the stores. The fragrant, bountiful St. Lawrence Market. The awful, embarrassing mayor. Someone you wouldn't want even at a table beside you at dinner. It's sad for him and also Toronto. Line ups for everything, transit, transit, people, people, but...

The wonderful hot docs festival, three films in all: the powerful "Virunga", about the endangered national park in the Congo, a World Heritage Site. Why do these stories never change? Why are corporate values, in general, so contrary to nature? Proceeds from poaching mountain gorillas fund the rebel armies as do payoffs from SOCO, the British oil company that wants to use Virunga as its own private profit well. Not much different than in King Leopold's days of rubber high grading. Instead of chopping off human hands, the hands of  gorillas are chopped.  Wonderful footage, sad story. Somewhat splayed story structure.

Then "Rich Hill", the intimate look at this Missouri town of 1500, and three boys anyone would term at risk. Fabulous job of intimate film making, character revelation. Andrew taking care of his parents, Harley about to explode, Appachey drifting, smoking, reverting to a baby with his head on his mother's shoulder before he enters juvenile court. Beautiful camera work, too.

My least favourite, "Lady Valour", not because of Kristin Beck and her situation, her having come out as a woman after a career as a U.S.navy seal; but the CNN way of underscoring with loud music, concentrating too much on the nail polish and the high heels of this so-called princess warrior. I'm not sure the film really did justice to Ms. Beck, though the director had her explain her situation again and again and again. Most touching part, Kristin's father, brother and sister. The emotional toll of Kristin's transformation, the love they felt for her... that said more than any of the statements she made about how hard it was to be her.

Traffic tie ups slowing down the Bathurst bus on a long, rainy day.... but, charming side streets with narrow brick houses and peak roofs. Sun breaking through, wind blowing away the clouds and, finally, free ice cream and a dancing cow to celebrate the opening of the new Dutch Dreams location on Vaughan Road, and also Dutch liberation day!


Lake cities



Two great lakes, Michigan and Ontario; two great cities, Chicago and Toronto. Chicago holds more of a personal connection for me, having visited Lincoln Park Zoo as a child, prowled the Art Institute often during my teens, loitered in hotel lobbies pretending to be someone else. Attended some of my first theatre. Felt self-conscious with boys in fancy restaurants after a prom. The end of January weather was clear, sometimes cold and windy, but what zest the blue sky injected. The lake lay just on the other side of an overpass from Lincoln Park, near where I was working at the Chicago History museum; later in the week, just down the street from where I stayed in the Loop, a short walk - that included a crossing of Lake Shore drive, where there is a crossing light for pedestrians, down to Monroe Harbour and a sidewalk that stretches around the water.

This is a big difference between the two cities, lake accessibility... unless it is just that I do not know my way around Toronto well. Yes, I can walk from Union Station, under the freeway and across some busy streets to Queen's Quay, and from there along the lake shore, past Harbour Centre and further along, the lovely park with its musical references. But it seems further away from the core of downtown, and so I rode the streetcar out to The Beaches, stopped in Leslieville along the way, for coffee with Alison. It was a raw day, so I didn't walk far, but did see a lovely view of the lake and appreciate the potential of the sand on a sunny day. Development decisions in the past have affected the appearance of Toronto, and with more high rise condos going up, the lake may just disappear from easy view?

The Dufferin Centre theatre complex, Saturday afternoon. In the Ladies room, in the large stall next to me, a woman speaks: "It's okay, Joe. It's only the movies. Did it scare you? I guess I'll never see the end of that movie. It's okay, Joe. We're only at the movies.

The thin lady dressed in yellow pants, with a yellow scarf over her head, whipping around the new Dollorama on West St. Clair, chattering in Spanish to a friend she finds in an aisle.

The couple at Honest Ed's, the woman perhaps 5 feet, drawn-on eyebrows, rusty hair, her husband maybe 5 foot 4, a three inch fringe around the back of his bald head; jars and jars of honey, piles of clothes heaped on the counter. The woman bargaining with the Asian clerk,the blocky husband packing items in their carry-all, forebearing, conspiring.

The big black gallumphing poodle in Cedarvale Park on a sunny cool day, the paths half ice, half mud. Dog society, dog-owner society. Some are new, wary, others familiar and know how to behave, whether to restrain, or simply toss the ball. A small woman with an Irish face, short brown hair, pushing a shopping cart up the hill from the base of the ravine. The contrast between the gritty feel of Bathurst and St. Clair West, with food banks, Phillipine Fruit and Vegetable stores, the Dollorama, and the grand homes of Forest Hill nearby.


Eatons's Centre area, so busy, so loud, full of people. What can I say about Toronto that isn't a cliche? But if I am going to be visiting more or less frequently, I need to find a connection in addition to my daughter. Old City Hall is beautiful, I like the variety of people -- always someone to catch one's attention. The noisy yakka bar (it's our culture, remarked the hostess, when I commented on the volume).


When I stood on the sidewalk, waiting for the cab a woman in, perhaps, her late 40's, early 50's walked toward me, smoking, muttering. She wore a good cloth coat. "It's all about greed and money. I told her to cash the cheque right away." She was on the verge of tears. Straight teeth, full lips, pencilled-on eyebrows, a hat low over her forehead. Eyes the colour of the lake on a cloudy day. Her rent cheque bounced. Her mother didn't like her. She was the oldest and her mother didn't like her. But she has the church, where they let her lead the rosary." I'm weird," she said. "I believe in Jesus. And I have two beautiful daughters. It's a beautiful day, I like days like this. And you're beautiful, too," she concluded, before continuing on. The arc of an encounter.